Mounting the Jaw on New GYS Skulls

Step 1.

This is how your new GYS skull will arrive. The Jaw will not be mounted on the skull.

We do this because of shipping issues. If skulls need to be shipped by air, the temperature variations in the cargo hold cause expansion and contraction of the skull and jaw which can crack and break the hinges that allow the jaw to move smoothy.

Everything will be done except for the final step, which will be spelled out here below.

Start by making sure that what you received looks like the picture here and is not missing any parts.

Step 2.

Arrange the jaw so that it is directly below the skull as shown here.

It should be in position to attach to the skull where it ultimately belongs.

Arrange it so that the top part of the hinges (which are the gray parts sticking out of the back end of the jaw at each side) are lined up just below the holes drilled into the underside of the skull which those hinges will fit into.

Also make sure that the Rod which connects to the Jaw servo goes through the hole in the skull provided as shown in this picture

Step 3.

being careful not to get it on your fingers or other parts of the skull or jaw, apply some super glue or model cement to the shaft of the hinge as shown.

DO NOT allow the glue to run down the shaft and cement together the hinge itself. That would be counter-productive.

Step 4.

Align the jaw so that the hinges line up with the holes in the skull, and with the skull upside-down, slide the hinge shafts into the holes allowing the glue to take hold. Push both sides in equally at the same time.

Make sure the rod which attaches to the Jaw Servo is going through the hole provided.

Step 5.

Push the jaw hinges as far as they go into the top of the skull so that they are not visible (or barely visible) from the outside of the skull.

Test the jaw to make sure it moves freely.

Wipe off any excess glue.

Step 6.

This is what you should see now.

After allowing the glue to dry, you will need to attach the top of the servo rod to the servo horn.

In this picture, you can see the two parts close to each other, but not yet connected.

Step 7.

With your fingers move the servo arm (servo horn) up as far as it goes to make sure it is in position to hold the jaw shut.

Step 8.

Arrange the jaw rod so that the cup at the top fits over the ball attached to the servo arm and with your fingers, snap the two together.

Step 9.

Actually, this isn't really a step, since there is nothing for you to do here unless what you have looks radically different from this picture.

The jaw rod should now be firmly attached to the servo arm as shown.

THAT'S IT!

You should now have a completed skull that moves it's jaw up and down when you move the jaw servo arm.

The teeth should just barely come together with the servo all the way up. This is important, because we don't want the teeth to come together before the servo arm is already up. If that were the case, the servo would be trying to move up further and would be unable to becuase the jaw would already be fully closed. This would lead to servo strain and overheating and would quickly burn up the servo.

If for some reason, the above scenero does happen to you, and the jaw servo is buzzing all the time when the jaw is closed and gets excessively hot, you have to make an adjustment. Unscew the servo arm and adjust it in a slightly lower position. This would prevent the possibility of this ever happening again. We will be glad to talk you through it if you need help.