Assembly Instructions for 3 Axis Skull

Graveyard Skulls Assembly Instructions for the Eye Kit in a Lindberg or GYS Skull

These instructions are pretty much the same for our own skull (The GYS Skull) or the Lindberg.
We no longer sell the Bucky Skull as the quality and consistency have gone way down.

EYE KIT WARNINGS:

DO NOT PULL ON THE EYES!
DOING SO WILL CAUSE UNDO STRESS AND YOU COULD PULL EYE AWAY FROM BALL JOINT BRACKET AND IT WILL NEED TO BE REPAIRED.
TO ADJUST DEPTH OF EYE, LOOSEN THE SCREW HOLDING THE BRASS ROD IN PLACE AND SLIDE THE ROD FORWARD OR BACKWARDS.
TOUCH ONLY THE BRASS ROD. DO NOT PUT ANY STRESS ON THE EYE BALLS! ONCE THEY ARE SET TO THE DEPTH YOU WANT, RETIGHTEN THE SCREWS.

IF EYES ARE NOT CENTERED, USE PLIERS TO SLIGHTLY BEND BRASS RODS IN ORDER TO MOVE EYES TO A CENTER POSITION.
DO NOT OVERBEND. JUST TAKES A VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF BENDING. DO NOT PITCH OR DENT BRASS TUBES. DOING SO CAN SHORT OUT THE LEDS.

	Step 1: The first thing to do is to cut out the eye sockets. We use a drill press. This is recommended, but you can use a hand drill if you work out a way to hold the skull steady while you drill. The hole cutter should be 1 inch in diameter. You can get these at any hardware store. If you are into buying online, this is McMaster-Carr Part number 4066A18 and it sells for $3.82. The hole cutter will pretty much center itself, just aim for the middle of each eye socket and cut all the way through. You will be cutting away more material later with a Dremel tool.
	Step 2: This is what it should look like once the eye sockets are cut out. We put the red cloth back there for contrast so you can see the holes better.
	Step 3: Now, mark out an area like what you see here, and prepare to cut out a lot of material with your dremel tool. The marked area is roughly the shape of the eye kit. Basically, you need to set the eye kit in place and draw around it to see where you need to cut out material. As you cut more and more material away, keep trying out the eye kit in the space you made until you have cleared away enough material for the eye kit to fit in without hitting anything.
	Step 4: Before you can put the eye kit into place, you will have to make the eye holes larger as well. enlarge them using your dremel tool (refer to the last step in this section for information about the dremel and the type of bit to use). Do this by eye (so to speak) until it looks close to the size of the eyeball that is going in there.
	Step 5: Here is how you will clear out the extra material in the eye sockets from the outside. This is a GYS skull, but the process is the same for the Lindberg skulls. We have some pictures of the Lindbergs at the end of this tutorial. You want to end up with about a .075 inch to .125 inch clearance around each eye ball when finished.
	Step 6: That is one eye pretty much done. Just needs some cleaning up with an exacto knife. Duplicate that process on the other eye socket.
	Step 7: This is what you end up with on the inside once that socket has been dremeled out.
	Step 8: Continue to clear away material on the inside of the skull. There will be quite a bit to remove. Keep trying the eye kit back in to see how much more you need to remove.
	Step 9: Here's looking at you! Got both eye sockets roughed out now and most of the inside material is gone.
	Step 10: Here's a look from the inside. Still needs a lot of cleaning up, but we have most of it cut away by now.
	Step 11: When you place the eye kit in, you will notice that the servo that sits on this side will need a little more clearance when it moves. Trying hard not to cut all the way through the skull, cut away as much material here as you can.
	Step 12: Just showing the mark here from a slightly different angle.
	Step 13: Once all the cutting away is complete, you should be able to gently place the eye kit in position. This will be easier if your eye kit is already mounted on the servo plate. If not, we will show you how to do that a little later. Carefully check out all around the eyeballs and make sure that there is no place where the eye socket actually comes in contact with the eyeball. You will need that .075 inch to .125 inch clearance around each eye ball that we talked about earlier. If any material comes in contact with any spot on either eyeball, it will cause drag and make the eyes not work in perfect unison, cause them to jump suddenly and may even burn out servos..
	Step 14: Sometimes, the skull is a little thin on material in the temple areas and you may end up cutting all the way through as we can see in these two shots. Don't panic if that happens. It will not cause a problem with the function of the skull and holes in that area really do not show from the front. If it really bothers you, a small piece of masking take with some touch up paint on it that matches the color of your skull will make the holes invisible.
	Step 15: This is a Lindberg skull cut out using the same exact process shown above.
	Step 16: This is what the cut out eye sockets should look like when completed on the Lindberg.
	Step 17: Here, you can see the eye kit laid in place before it gets attached to the servo plate.
	Step 18: From the front, you can get an idea if you need to cut away any more material. These eyes are just sitting in the skull without being attached to a servo plate, so they are a bit crooked.
	Step 19: To attach the eye kit to the servo plate, you need to first line it up in the correct position on the servo plate. We will provide a template for you to make sure it is lined up correctly.
	Step 20: Here, you can see the template which you can download and lay on your servo plate to get the exact location. The image to the left is NOT TO SCALE. It is just for your reference. To get the actual template, you must download the PDF file HERE for the Lindberg Skull And HERE for the GYS skull. PLEASE NOTE: Many printers will shrink an image to fit it on a page. If the image is not actual size, your placement will be off. Please be sure that you are able to print out actual size versions of this template. The outline of the servo plate should be exactly actual size to your servo plate.
	Step 21: Once in place, you can attach it with glue, but we highly recommend drilling a couple small holes for a number 6 screw and tapping the holes in the eye kit bracket. You would carefully mark the holes and drill them out in the servo plate first using a number 28 drill bit (That is a size that number 6-32 machine screws will easily slide through. Once those holes are drilled, switch to a number 34 drill bit and drill 2 corresponding holes directly into the eye kit bracket. Only go down about half an inch into the bracket. Using a 6-32 tap which you can buy anywhere or online as shown at the end of this tutorial, tap the two holes in the eye kit bracket. Using 1/2 or 5/8 inch long 6-32 screws, mount the eye kit onto the servo plate. (Click HERE to see a tutorial on tapping holes and screwing in the eye kit)
	Step 22: Here are some of the parts that you will need to complete this project. Remember that if you don't feel that you can handle this modification, you can always mail in your skull to us and we will do it for you for a fee of $20.00 plus shipping and handling. Turn around is about 2 weeks.

Step 1:

The first thing to do is to cut out the eye sockets. We use a drill press. This is recommended, but you can use a hand drill if you work out a way to hold the skull steady while you drill.

The hole cutter should be 1 inch in diameter. You can get these at any hardware store. If you are into buying online, this is McMaster-Carr Part number 4066A18 and it sells for $3.82.

The hole cutter will pretty much center itself, just aim for the middle of each eye socket and cut all the way through. You will be cutting away more material later with a Dremel tool.

Step 2:

This is what it should look like once the eye sockets are cut out. We put the red cloth back there for contrast so you can see the holes better.

Step 3:

Now, mark out an area like what you see here, and prepare to cut out a lot of material with your dremel tool. The marked area is roughly the shape of the eye kit.

Basically, you need to set the eye kit in place and draw around it to see where you need to cut out material.

As you cut more and more material away, keep trying out the eye kit in the space you made until you have cleared away enough material for the eye kit to fit in without hitting anything.

Step 4:

Before you can put the eye kit into place, you will have to make the eye holes larger as well.

enlarge them using your dremel tool (refer to the last step in this section for information about the dremel and the type of bit to use).

Do this by eye (so to speak) until it looks close to the size of the eyeball that is going in there.

Step 5:

Here is how you will clear out the extra material in the eye sockets from the outside. This is a GYS skull, but the process is the same for the Lindberg skulls. We have some pictures of the Lindbergs at the end of this tutorial.

You want to end up with about a .075 inch to .125 inch clearance around each eye ball when finished.

Step 6:

That is one eye pretty much done. Just needs some cleaning up with an exacto knife.

Duplicate that process on the other eye socket.

Step 7:

This is what you end up with on the inside once that socket has been dremeled out.

Step 8:

Continue to clear away material on the inside of the skull.

There will be quite a bit to remove.

Keep trying the eye kit back in to see how much more you need to remove.

Step 9:

Here's looking at you!

Got both eye sockets roughed out now and most of the inside material is gone.

Step 10:

Here's a look from the inside. Still needs a lot of cleaning up, but we have most of it cut away by now.

Step 11:

When you place the eye kit in, you will notice that the servo that sits on this side will need a little more clearance when it moves.

Trying hard not to cut all the way through the skull, cut away as much material here as you can.

Step 12:

Just showing the mark here from a slightly different angle.

Step 13:

Once all the cutting away is complete, you should be able to gently place the eye kit in position. This will be easier if your eye kit is already mounted on the servo plate.

If not, we will show you how to do that a little later.

Carefully check out all around the eyeballs and make sure that there is no place where the eye socket actually comes in contact with the eyeball. You will need that .075 inch to .125 inch clearance around each eye ball that we talked about earlier.

If any material comes in contact with any spot on either eyeball, it will cause drag and make the eyes not work in perfect unison, cause them to jump suddenly and may even burn out servos..

Step 14:

Sometimes, the skull is a little thin on material in the temple areas and you may end up cutting all the way through as we can see in these two shots.

Don't panic if that happens. It will not cause a problem with the function of the skull and holes in that area really do not show from the front.

If it really bothers you, a small piece of masking take with some touch up paint on it that matches the color of your skull will make the holes invisible.

Step 15:

This is a Lindberg skull cut out using the same exact process shown above.

Step 16:

This is what the cut out eye sockets should look like when completed on the Lindberg.

Step 17:

Here, you can see the eye kit laid in place before it gets attached to the servo plate.

Step 18:

From the front, you can get an idea if you need to cut away any more material.

These eyes are just sitting in the skull without being attached to a servo plate, so they are a bit crooked.

Step 19:

To attach the eye kit to the servo plate, you need to first line it up in the correct position on the servo plate.

We will provide a template for you to make sure it is lined up correctly.

Step 20:

Here, you can see the template which you can download and lay on your servo plate to get the exact location.

The image to the left is NOT TO SCALE. It is just for your reference.

To get the actual template, you must download the PDF file HERE for the Lindberg Skull

And HERE for the GYS skull.

PLEASE NOTE:

Many printers will shrink an image to fit it on a page. If the image is not actual size, your placement will be off. Please be sure that you are able to print out actual size versions of this template.

The outline of the servo plate should be exactly actual size to your servo plate.

Step 21:

Once in place, you can attach it with glue, but we highly recommend drilling a couple small holes for a number 6 screw and tapping the holes in the eye kit bracket.

You would carefully mark the holes and drill them out in the servo plate first using a number 28 drill bit (That is a size that number 6-32 machine screws will easily slide through.

Once those holes are drilled, switch to a number 34 drill bit and drill 2 corresponding holes directly into the eye kit bracket. Only go down about half an inch into the bracket.

Using a 6-32 tap which you can buy anywhere or online as shown at the end of this tutorial, tap the two holes in the eye kit bracket.

Using 1/2 or 5/8 inch long 6-32 screws, mount the eye kit onto the servo plate.

(Click HERE to see a tutorial on tapping holes and screwing in the eye kit)

Step 22:

Here are some of the parts that you will need to complete this project.

Remember that if you don't feel that you can handle this modification, you can always mail in your skull to us and we will do it for you for a fee of $20.00 plus shipping and handling.

Turn around is about 2 weeks.